Runswick Bay
17th February 2019
This is the route I took.
I had been a while since I last went for a walk (Grassington 28th December 2018), I felt it was time to get back out there. The location, well that was undecided until that morning, I had thought of going to Thirsk, but once I was up and I saw it was looking as though it was going to be a nice day, I thought a trip to the coast was called for.
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I had read about the above route earlier in the week, so thought yeah that will do. The route mentioned a couple of cafés, one near to the Lifeboat house, and the other near Kettleness, so I thought, a nice wander around the village, a nice cup of coffee, then set off on the walk. "Best laid plans of mice and men" as the saying goes! The café was not open, but without checking for any notices I headed off on the walk, thinking it would be open on my return. The café at Kettleness was also closed (this was a great disappointment, as the views from this café were stunning). On returning to the Runswick Bay village I went to the café and this time saw the notice!
Arrived at little early for a coffee!
I got up nice and early, had a coffee and a bit of breakfast, made a flask of coffee to take with me, I set off at around 07:50, arriving at the car park in Bank Top Lane, opposite the Cliffemount Hotel, at around 09:25. The pay & display meter was out of order, so free parking!
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I went over to the view point to have a look at the lovely view, the weather was gorgeous, I took some photos (but with the sun still low in the sky and more or less in front of me, I got a lot of sun flair). I then headed back to my car, and put my boots on. Time for a toilet break before I started the walk, only to find the toilets were closed for renovation! Once I had my camera bag (decided against using my rucksack), I headed for the path at the end of Bank Top Lane.
My 1st view of Runswick Bay from the car park.
The path zig-zags quite steeply in places down to the village, coming out on the road called Cleveland Way. Turning left here to head towards the sea front, passing 2 private car parks for the sailing club, and a public car park, and finally a residents car park just off a mini roundabout (this due to the fact that for most of the village there are no roads, just pathways), all on the right hand side of the road. At the mini roundabout you can go left on the only bit of road into the village, or right, which takes you down to a couple of slipways and the beach. I headed this way in search of the café for a coffee and a toilet break. Before I even got to the café, I noticed it wasn't open, but I did notice a sign pointing along the path to some public toilets (yay! something that was open). To get to the toilets, you follow a path past the back of the old lifeboat house. After spending a penny, I headed left and then down the side of the lifeboat house, onto the beach.
The old lifeboat house
From here I headed along the beach, taking various photos, just taking my time, no real rush, I just wanted to enjoy the day, clear my head and let any worries fade into insignificance, enjoy my thoughts while listening to my music.
Part way along the beach I noticed the RNLI were practising not too far out, I felt sorry for the person who was shoved overboard. I got to thinking, it's not much of a practise, when you throw someone overboard, then drive the boat in a big circle and end up right next to the person you have just thrown overboard! To me it would have been better to have gone away for an hour or so, then come back and have to search for them (well maybe not an hour, just go out to sea, do some manoeuvres, and then come back and search). That being said, I have nothing but admiration for these brave men and women, who have chosen to volunteer to do this perilous job, to practise in their spare time, and to drop everything when the call comes in. Respect!
The brave men & women of the RNLI
I continued along the beach, where I noticed and old WWII Pillbox, due to erosion it was now resting on the beach, the Home Guard now long gone, the inside was now filled up with sand and rubbish, it now looks in a sorry state. If you look around you will also see Anti-Tank Cubes.
WWII Pillbox on Runswick Sands
As you make your way further along the beach, the cliffs rise up to your right. At the base of these cliffs is a series of caves, the largest is known as Hob Hole (it was believed that it was the home of a Hob or Boggart in local folk law.
I understand the opening in the middle is known as Hob Hole, but after reading information various web sites, they could all be called Hob Hole.
Looking out of Hob Hole
Shortly after the caves, there is a stream coming out of a narrow valley, I headed up this way, following the Cleveland Way footpath route. You soon arrive at a small waterfall, care is needed at this point as the rocks are slippy with water and mud, there is a well worn route to fallow. Some steps with a balustrade to hold onto next to the waterfall. I followed this track.
The small waterfall with the stepped path to the right
I continued to follow the path round to the left then right, as you go left a footbridge comes into view, also just beyond the bridge is another bridge, which is not much more than a scaffolding plank stretching from one bank to the other, at a non too safe angle.
The footbridge over the stream
With my normal sense of adventure, I headed straight for the scaffolding plank bridge (just to see where it would lead to), once across I followed the track for a short distance, where I decided, it would not go the way I wanted to go. I retraced my steps back to the scaffolding plank bridge (it looked a lot more precarious going back than if did going the other way). Once back across, I made my way to the main footbridge, and crossed the stream again.
The scaffolding Plank Footbridge
Now back on the Cleveland Way, I followed the footpath as it steadily climbed up hill. You soon get the idea that this is going to be a steep climb when the path turns into stairs. This was no stairway to heaven! The stairs continued all the way, zig zagging to the top, with only a few points where there was no stairs. Every so often you would be able to get a glimpse of Runswick Bay Village as you ascended the stairs.
By no means a stairway to heaven!
After having various stops on the way up to take in the views (who am I kidding, to get my breath back), I finally reached the top, was it worth the effort I hear you ask (please), yes it was. The views were beautiful and with the lovely weather, made it more enjoyable, although the weather was lovely, you could not see for miles and miles out to sea, as there was a misty horizon, also it was blowing a gale on top of the cliffs. Even after the frequent stops on the way up, I found a bench, and had a breather and a cup of coffee, while taking in the views.
The view of Runswick Bay from the top of the cliffs
After my coffee break, I continued along the well trodden path that is the Cleveland Way, be advised, the path does get close to the cliff edge, so if you are not good with heights, stay over to the inland side of the path, also on very blustery days, the same advice applies.
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The path is easy going, more or less flat, just gentle undulating cliff top countryside. I continued along the Cleveland Way going through a number of stiles. I spotted a cargo ship that had recently left one of the many ports along this coastline, sailing not too far offshore, heading North.
I got to thinking, where are they heading for? how long are they going to be at sea for? How many crew would it take to crew the ship?
I have often wondered what my life would have been like if I had lived in my birth town of Hartlepool all my life, would I still have joined the army, if so would it still have been the R.C.T. or would I have joined the navy? I have always felt a draw to the sea, like the sea is in my bones.
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The above sums up why I enjoy the great outdoors.
The cargo ship that kick started an all new thought process
After watching the ship make it's way north, I continued along the path, you can now see Kettleness more clearly in front and off to the right. The track dips down leading to some more steps up the other side, from here I followed the track round to the right, with Kettleness on my left. Continue to the corner of the field, then go left through the gate, following a farmers track towards a farm. Once at the farm, continue along onto a footpath that runs parallel to the farm track, keeping the farm buildings to your right. Ending up back on the cliff tops, bearing right, continue along the path, eventually arriving in Kettleness, with the smallest village green I have ever seen. Continue to follow the road for a short distance, then go left at the sign post for the Cleveland Way (Sandsend 3mls).
Public Footpath sign in Kettleness
The footpath follows a stone wall of a garden, at the end of the wall the footpath goes right. Here the track goes slight left, going parallel with the earthworks of a disused railway line. Continue to follow the footpath as it hugs the cliff tops. As the signpost in Kettleness indicates, you could continue all the way to Sandsend and beyond. I on the other hand continued until a short distance after the footpath goes left then a sharp right.
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If I had known what I found out when I got to work on Monday, I would have continued to Sandsend. A work colleague had gone to Whitby for the day, found it almost impossible to park, so ended up in Sandsend.
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I will not bore you with the details of the return journey, as it was just the reverse of the outward journey.
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What I will say though, is as I was getting to the end of the cliffs, I had noticed the tide was coming in, at which point I wondered how I would get back along the beach to Runswick. I could still see people walking along the beach, so I gathered there would be a way. As it happens, it wasn't that bad. As I was walking along the beach, I noticed a young lad carrying a hammer, I thought what the hell is he going to do with that? But as I got further along the beach it became clear, fossil hunting.
Once back in the village, I spent another penny before going to explore the narrow streets of this lovely village. Although in one respect I would love to live here, I think it would be a nightmare to move in, having to move furniture and the such from the end of the only bit of road into the village to your new home.
Runswick Bay village
After a wander around the village I headed back to the main road, by this time I was getting hungry, and as the café was closed, I had to find an alternative, which came in the form of the Royal Hotel. It was such a nice day, people were sitting outside, enjoying a drink and food, so in I went, it was packed, no where to sit, and a queue for the bar, which didn't seem to move, so I left.
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After leaving The Royal, I headed to the main road out of Runswick Bay, I didn't go back to the car park the way I had arrived, instead I went up the steep road, which made me have to take a few breathers on the way up. Once back at my car, I left for home, keeping an eye open for somewhere to eat. I eventually found a Subway eatery, and went there. Once finished, I headed home.
Runswick Bay
Would I visit again? I think yes I would like to, maybe in the summer, but then I think it would mean a very early start, as I believe on a lovely hot summers day this place would be packed out and to find somewhere to park would be a nightmare.