13th May 2018
Malham Cove
Panoramic view from the top edge of Malham Cove.
Malham is situated in North Yorkshire, around 8 miles north west of Skipton, to get to Malham after leaving the A65, you travel along some very typical narrow country roads. Malham Coves huge natural limestone crescent shaped cliff is visible for miles. It looks just as impressive from a distance as it does close up.
As well as the cove it self, there are a couple of waterfalls nearby, Janet's Foss, a lovely waterfall, which is said to be the home of Janet, Queen of the fairies. Also a little further on from Janet's Foss is Gordale Scar, a very impressive limestone gorge, which has a double waterfall at it's head. To get to the 2nd (upper) waterfall, you need to scramble up the side of the 1st (lower) waterfall (but it is worth the effort).
Map of the route I took from Malham to Malham Cove, via Janet's Foss and Gordale Scar.
Since living in West Yorkshire, I had heard the name of Malham Cove a number of times, then I saw a program on TV, which showed what a lovely area this is. I then had a look through my guide books and cards, and found a route to follow. I also had a search on the internet. I noticed that there are a couple of waterfalls on or near to the route. I went onto Ordnance Survey web site to work out the route (see map above) to include the waterfalls.
Janet's Foss waterfall.
I woke up early on Sunday 13th May 2018, at around 07:00. After having some breakfast and a nice cuppa, I got myself ready and loaded up the car with my gear, setting off at around 07:45, the journey took around an hour, the traffic wasn't too bad at that time of the morning, I arrived at the Malham National Park car park at just before 09:00, I was about the 3rd car in the car park that morning. After paying the parking fees (£2.50 for 2 hours or £4.50 for the day), I put my boots on made sure I had every thing I would need, and then headed out of the car park. My 1st priority was to find a shop to get a drink for the walk, so I turned left out of the car park and headed into the village. In the centre of the village the road forks left and right, the right hand fork goes over a bridge over Malham Beck, next to the bridge is a little shop, as I approached the shop I saw the shopkeeper sat out side sorting out one of his signs, the inside looked to be in darkness, I asked the man if the shop was open? He replied "if you are buying I am sure it can be", so in we went and I purchased my drink for the walk.
The bridge over Malham Beck, with the shop top left of the photo.
To start my walk properly, I had to head back towards the car park, I was looking for the Malham Smithy work shop, Just past the Smithies building, I turned left along the side of the building, which leads to an old stone clapper bridge over Malham Beck, once over the Beck I turned right onto the Pennine Way, to follow the Beck.
Looking past the side of Malham Smithy's to the old stone clapper bridge over Malham Beck.
A clapper bridge is an ancient bridge found on the moors of Devon and they are also found in many upland areas of the United Kingdom, including Snowdonia, Anglesey, Yorkshire, Lancashire and Cumbria. They are often found near to a ford where carts would cross, they are formed by laying large flat slabs of stone (granite or schist), supported by stone piers.
The word clapper is thought to derive from the Anglo-Saxon word cleaca, meaning "bridging the stepping stones".
Looking back towards the Smithy across the old stone clapper bridge.
Shortly after joining the Pennine Way, you pass a ford on the right. Following the path through a gap in the wall, the path from here is a stone flagged path, very easy to follow, it takes you through open fields to two kissing gates, turn left through the gates following the path, going past a farm out building on your right called Mires Barn. Continue to follow the path through open fields, with the Gordale Beck on your right . The path takes you through a gate into woodland, with Gordale Beck below to the right. The wood during spring and summer have carpets of bluebells and wild garlic, during my walk it was mainly wild garlic that covered the banks either side of the path.
Wild Garlic
Continue to follow the path through the woods, you eventually arrive at Janet's Foss (Foss is an old Norse word for waterfall or force). This is a lovely little waterfall, with loads of viewing points, and for the more adventurous, you can make your way to more or less behind the waterfall in a little alcove.
Continue to follow the path to the left of the waterfall, take care while walking over rocks and tree roots, you exit the wood by Gordale Lane. Turn right on to Gordale Lane, continue along the lane past a little layby that has a mobile café parked up. Gordale Lane becomes Hawthorns Lane, continue along the lane, go round the right hand bend, and just as the lane starts to straighten up, there is an entrance to a camping site (Gordale Scar Campsite) on the left. Go through the gate and follow the gravelled track through the site. Gordale Scar is right in front of you as you walk along the track. The track becomes a path the closer you get to the gorge. All of a sudden you do a slight right turn, and there you are, this huge gorge all around you, and at the centre of it is the double waterfall.
The double waterfall in Gordale Scar.
So my original idea for this walk was to head up to the waterfall (singular) at Gordale Scar, then head back to Hawthorns Lane and retrace my steps along the lane to find a path that would eventually lead me to Malham Cove.
After watching a few people make their way up the side of the lower waterfall, I had a look on my map and made the decision to go up the side of the waterfall and make my way to Malham Cove that way!
The climb next to the lower waterfall is not as hard as it may look, quite easy really, even with my camera tripod sticking out either side of my rucksack. Once at the top of the lower waterfall, I realised it was a great decision to climb up there, I think the upper waterfall and the area it is in, is beautiful. After taking loads of photos (hoping they will turn out OK) and a 5 minute coffee break, I started the climb out of the gorge.
My way out of the gorge.
I headed up into the gap between the two rock faces, as you go up, the track has steps to make it a little easier on the climb up out of the gorge. Once on the top the whole view opens out.
Some of the people who had passed through the gorge while I was busy taking photos, were taking a breather and taking in the views from the top.
There is a valley to the right, which has the Gordale Beck flowing through it to the waterfalls, as you look to the north, the valley then turns into what looks like North Yorkshires answer to the Grand Canyon (obviously on a much much smaller scale)
Looking along the valley, which has Gordale Beck flowing through it.
There were a number of people up here, a lot of them had passed by me while I was taking photos of the waterfalls, they were taking in the views while having a break before continuing their journeys. The obvious route was straight ahead, which is the direction most of the other people went, but me being me, I spotted another path leading off to the left! I thought I would follow this path to the top of the slight rise, and see where it went from there.
Once at the top of the rise I could see an easy to follow path which headed in the direction of Malham Cove, but taking this path opened up some lovely views from the top of the cliffs of Gordale Scar.
Looking back towards Gordale Scar Campsite, from the top of the cliffs of Gordale Scar.
I continued along the cliffs of New Close Knotts. Following the path down into dips and back out again, eventually I could see the road I wanted, a little way in the distance, From my view point I could work out the route I needed to take to get to the road.
I eventually arrived at the road, only to find that the drystone wall didn't have a way over it, so I started to follow the wall, until I came to a step stile over the wall.
Once over the wall & onto the road (Cove Road), I headed left, heading downhill. Cove Road headed towards Malham, I knew that this road would lead me to a point my original route would have taken me, once there I turned right onto the footpath which would take me to Malham Cove, via Sherriff Hill. Malham Cove came into view on the left hand side, it is an amazing sight to see.
My first view of Malham Cove close up.
After taking some photos, I headed over to the top (terrace) of Malham Cove, I found a lovely spot, roughly in the centre of the Cove, near the edge to take some photos. From here you get a lovely view down the valley to Malham. I then headed to the far side of the cove to find the path that made it's way down off the Cove. I am glad I walked the route this way and not the other way round, I wouldn't have fancied walking up to the top of the Cove via this route, it is quite a steep climb at times.
Once down, I headed towards the base of the cove.
There were a number of people rock climbing up the face of the Cove, rather them than me! It was here I noticed Malham Beck the stream that would eventually become the River Aire south of Malham at Aire Head, appear from the base of the Cove.
It is when you are stood at the base of the Cove that you realise just how high and impressive it is.
A couple of climbers making their way up the face of the Cove.
After a short while, I headed out of the Cove, following a well worn footpath towards Malham. I was by this time getting hungry, so thought I would go back to my car, change my footwear and leave my rucksack in my car, then go back into the village to find somewhere to eat.
Best laid plans of mice and men as the saying goes...
My car has keyless entry, and on heading out on my walk, I put my keys into my rucksack for safe keeping. On returning to my car I opened my boot, put my rucksack in the boot, took out my trainers so I could change out of my boots, I closed my boot, but noticed it wasn't quite shut. I tried to close it properly, this failed, I tried to open it, this failed. I tried to open the doors, still nothing! Then I realised that with my keys still in my rucksack which was in my car, I was locked out of my car!
One creeping phone call later, my lovely wife Susie, came to my rescue. Luckily, I had my wallet with me, so after hiding my walking boots under my car, I was able to go and get something to eat at a nearby café. After around an hour a very nervous Susie (due to not being too happy about driving through country lanes she does not know, plus also having a warning light appear on her dashboard) arrived with my spare key. We went to the café I had been to for a coffee before heading back home.
Malham Cove
Despite the key incident, I had one of the best walks I have had in a long time, I would do this walk again, and I would recommend it to anyone. If you do decide to do this walk, I would recommend you get there early, especially on a nice day, as the car park fills up very quickly.